Lindsay's take on journey so far

WED 30th April
Rom and L went into Le Hevre to suss out the passage from where we moored the boat and where the mast is to be taken off. Walked miles! It is a complete maze with many canals with dead ends After what seemed to be hours of walking we finally found it. The weather was very windy (force 6 blowing 7) with rain storms to match. Managed to find a few watering holes to dry out in . at least we have now a good knowledge of the layout of Le Havre. Not particularly impressive. The city is one of the biggest ports in France and has little to recommend it architecturally, just acres of concrete
Found the market (mainly fruit, meat and fish - good) and local "Marche' ( OK) . Went back to the boat and dinner

THURS 1st MAY
France is closed!!!! No buses, trains or shops open as we found out having walked 2 miles to the bus station to catch a bus to Honfleur. This was after being assured that a Sunday service was running by the tourist office the previous day!
Weather better so explored the beach end, pebbles with sand when the tide goes out. long promenade with the locals walking back and forth in their finery Found lots of little eateries- brilliant, stopped for coffee and usual beer for Rom

FRI 2nd MAY
We finally made it to Honfleur via Deauville by bus! I can highly recommend both places. Mainly 16th buildings with winding streets, quite touristy but with that distinct French touch. One can moor in the town basin, in both Honfleur and Deauville where there seemed a reasonable amount of visitor places available excellent food at reasonable prices.
The buses are interesting as there is no rhyme nor reason as one pays on the bus or at the ticket station. We got caught out by buying a return ticket then finding out it wasn't valid during the rush hour. Anyway for a 1 hour journey it only cost us 6 euro's so considerably cheaper than in GB.

SAT 4TH & 5TH MAY
D badly under-estimated how long it would take to get the boat ready for the canals as we are booked in for removing the mast on Monday. The worst bit was removing the wind generator as it was jammed into the gantry metalwork and took 4 hours to remove. Everything else just took longer to unscrew, take off or store. At 18.00 we had had enough and returned to our friendly restaurant for a huge helping of fruit de la mer.
The next day after anticipating motoring to the boatyard and having to go through the lock the lock keepers were on strike ( only in france !!) so it was another day in the marina and carrying on with removing the boom, ropes blowing up fenders etc.
After another call to the harbourmaster it appears we have a go at 9.30 tomorrow. I hope the canals are worth it, I can now understand why people go the Biscay route!

MON 6th May
After awaking at some un-godly hour as Dave was worried about the mast removal we were informed that it could not happen today at the hired crane, gearbox had burnt out! So yet another day kicking our heels. Rom disappeared for a couple of long walks and I caught up with my reading. My Mac has given up completely with mail, so have to relay messages through Dave's when he can get a connection. all very frustrating. We also have the problem of yet another Bank holiday on the 8th meaning all the locks and bridge opening grind to a halt. We had seen ourselves spending days stuck in Le Hevre. Dave is getting very frustrated with all the delays. this isn't what we planned at all!!!!!

TUES 7th MAY
Hurrah the mast is off and so are we - until we hit the first lock! The crane turned up on time, mast duly removed and we set off, spent the first hour trying to find our way out of the harbour - not easy, eventually after a few dead end we arrived at the first lock. The harbour master at Le Havre had informed the lock staff we were coming so we arrived, anticipating a quick lock through but as we were to learn this is not how it is done in France. After waiting for 1/2 hour the first gate opened we went through then I think they went off for lunch! after another 1/2 hour they closed the gate and the water level slowly went down, finally we were through - it took an hour and this was only the first one!
The next one, same story hung around and it was only when we tied up to a couple of bollards thinking "lunchtime" that a disembodied voice asked us if we wanted to lock through!!! Obviously the secret is pretend to tie up then the staff will come to life!
The original idea was to make a mad dash to Rouen over 12 hour journey taking advantage of the fast flowing river current but by the time we went through the locks at Le Havre the timing went out the window and we followed the canal to a tiny river on the Seine to anchor for the night. Very quiet, only us and swallows for company. Cracked a bottle of bubbly to celebrate. Plan to rise at 6 to catch the tide up

WED 7th MAY
Saw the sunrise on our way down the Seine absolutely fantastic, very peaceful with only us on the river, misty with birdsong. very cold, needed gloves at the helm. porridge for breakfast. After a few hours of seeing oil terminals, etc. on the riverbank the scenery became more rural with broadleaf trees and the occasional village. the tide had by then turned and we were doing 9 knots down river. At last we are getting there
Found a lovely marina near Albeut where we tied up for the night Very friendly patrons only charged us 10 euro's as there toilet block had had a fire and couldn't be used - didn't matter to us!

THURS 8th May
For once we were not up at the crack of dawn. Went through our first river lock bit of a disaster as Dave and Rom had different idea's and worked against each other - word were said! Moored up after passing through the lock in the hope of acquiring some bread as the bible mentioned a boulangie was close by - it lied and after waiting in vain for a beer at the local restaurant we passed on. Lovely backwater but had to be careful of tree roots.
Anchored in backwater near isle du Roule for the night

Fri 9th May
Up early as we were hoping to reach Paris for my short visit to Josh's birthday party. Went through the lock at Le Bas - de Posses, much better technique using the centre and stern cleat
On the way to Mevlan saw a small motor yacht in distress, it's cooling system had broken down and after waiting most of the day for help we were the only craft to pass by. Rafted alongside them motored her upstream to the grateful thanks of the crew of two. Gave Dave a cap to keep. Moored at a boat yard at Bassin, near Vernoullet.

Mon 12th May
Another bank holiday so no boulangerie, open so walked miles but eventually found some baguettes but no croissants!
We decided to aquire a two day boat pass a bit like the boat taxi's in Venice a get on get off system and went to the Louvre with the intention of returning tomorrow. Breathtaking architecture , the garden had beautiful statues, lots of fountains, absolutely stunning! the French do these thing so well. The bridges along the river with wonderful statues and stone carvings some with gold leaf shining in the sunlight, you just have to see to appreciate. We also saw the Eifel tower, ( fill in later with map)
Stopped off for a couple of beers and tapas midday on the Champs Elysais.
Kept awake most of the night by a rowdy party of youngsters on the barge opersite but Lawrence ( an Aussie) told them where to get off in true Aussie style at 2 am and they quietened down

Tues. 12th May
Dave worked part of the morning then we set out sightseeing around 11 ish. Boat taxi to the Louvre only to find it shut today! decided to visit Notre Dame. Very impressive, huge with marvellous realiefs & statues centuries old and beautiful coloured glass windows including a circular one.
Back to the boat as Dave had a work meeting at 16.00
We invited Lawrence and Sonny from next door and Don and Diane some Americans further upstream over for drinks in the evening

Wed 13th May
Dave worked until 10 ish then I discovered we actually had an Internet connection Whoopee!! so made the most of it by catching up with some of my messages
Around midday locked the boat and set out for Versailles via the local train system Their trains aren't the most comfortable but OK for a short while.
Versailles is huge so booked up for the guided tour as well as one of those talking tours. Very interesting finding out how rigid the court protocol was even for royalty I didn't realise that the French royal family wasn't wiped out during the revolution and there are still plenty of them left. The gardens are magnificent we walked our feet off I think we are now cultured out and are thinking of having a quiet day in tomorrow. Heavy rain this afternoon in Paris itself with the odd threatened thunderstorm to come I suspect

Thurs 14th May
Decided to have a day in and catch up on a few jobs
Dave had to strip the cooling system to check all was OK while I cleaned and teak oiled the cockpit table something I had marked down to do for some time Looks good but needs a second coat when we next stop over for a few days. Decided that we needed to re-provision the galley, walked for miles with a full shopping trolly having got myself lost as usual
Tried to send Rob an e-card but couldn't get an Internet connection. Fortunately a very nice chap called Chris who is a permanent live-aboard at the Arsenal and has a phone connection let me use his connection so hopefully it will reach Rob. This chap lives on a barge beautifully done up complete with full size kitchen, lounge two bedrooms and showers, maybe something to think about when we become landlubbers again

Fri 15th May
Time to move on so departed Paris to well wishes from our new friends and motored off. Weather has changed somewhat and the sky is full of black clouds and a distinct temp drop. Tried to find diesel as we are only 1/3 full, the stuff cannot be found for love or money we have enough for the next day or two but it isn't good to run so low maybe we will be luckier tomorrow
Had lots of lock practice with just the two of us We came across one lockeeper who clearly did not approve of pleasure craft ( or the british) and refused to acknowledge our VHF and gave us a very bumpy ride in the lock!
We are now moored up on the outskirts of Melun after yet another fruitless hunt for a petrol station. Its pouring with rain together with the odd bout of thunder and lightning so we have called it a day

Sat 17th May
Both Dave & I had a lie in so didn't get going until 9 ish ( late for us!) weather still omnibus and the hunt for diesel went on Went by several rather nice villages but didn't dare stop until the fuel situation was resolved we had been told of a fuel barge in St Mammes but after so many disappointments we weren't holding our breath. Mid morning the heavens opened and the rain was torrential lasted for 1/4 hour during we passed several skiff rowers looking rather wet, one has to admire them for their athuseum !
At last reached St Mammes and what do you know a diesel barge which sold camping gas as well. Our cup runneth over
After filling up every container we had we moved on and found a delightful medieval town at Moret - sur - Loing on the Canal du Loing, very peaceful spot good place to stay and explore on Sun ( the locks are closed then)
Had a quick walk into town where there appeared to be a local festival going on with lots of stalls and a fantastic church gargoyles all over the place, will go back to have a proper look tomorrow. Even the weather has bucked up !

Sun 18th May
Spent the day at Moret -sur-Loing catching up with little boat jobs like finishing cockpit table and repairing the jellcoat that had flaked off. Met a group of French having a picnic close to Rosa they were here for the W/E up from Paris, several adults plus kids. They were interested in the boat so showed them around and they gave us some Normandy cider . We also met a couple of Irish live aboard who had been on their travels for several years with no end in sight. They live on a 53 foot motorboat nicely fitted out . I think if we want to make this travelling lark longer we will have to up size! We also went to a concert in the local church -very good, a singer and harper. As one gets to stay 3 days for the price of two we are planning to stay over Mon as well
Mon 19th May
Still feeling out of sorts, took it out on poor Dave, went off for a walk, felt better . Spent the day doing such mundane things as washing, cleaning and catching up on my e-mails. Mike and Roseanne came over for morning coffee, I shot into town for some cakes to find it closed! The boulangerie was open but not much of a choice, They had lovely decorated large cakes but at 17 - 21 euro's each a bit over our budget, one day though!
We went for an evening stroll to feed the ducks our leftover bread we had a really nice time walking along the river. I will miss this place it has been a superb visit

Tues. 20th May
Didn't really get going until late morning. went into town and treated Dave to a dozen oysters for dinner, said our good-byes to Mike and co who are also leaving and set off for a leisurely potter down river making for Noyne (PK 34) but were thorted at the lock before the village, loads of boats waiting to go through, must have arrived at barge rush hour time, as it looked as if we were going to be there for at least an hour if not longer we decided to abandoned and head back to Bray where there was a mooring pontoon for pleasure craft. Not exactly salubrious but OK for the night

Thurs 22nd May
After a restless night Dave seemed a little better, we are going to potter down to Sens a largest town only 25 km and more importantly 6 ecluses away! The lockeepers seemed to be particularly friendly except one who was barely civil but I guess one gets all sorts, maybe he had a row with his wife or something!! Arrived Sens and found a town mooring free!!!!. Electricity but only one station, as three other boats had already plugged in we are on boat battery yet again. Went into town mainly to try and track down a launderette no luck going with Dave but went off by myself and ASKED and lo and behold directions were given (what is it with men and asking directions)? Lugged all the washing over the bridge 1/2 km away and figured out the instructions, every time different, so now we have clean clothes again. Also visited Sens cathedral 11th century, absolutely awe-inspiring, huge towering ceilings with very elaborate stonework the sort of place one can only whisper in. Definitely worth the visit. Sens also has a market tomorrow so will stock up on veg etc. then move on

Fri 23rd May
The market at Sens is very impressive with a wide choice of goods ranging from clothes to meat, fish, veg and fruit, Its lovely to see foods we haven't seen before even if we haven't the money to buy them! Had a quick lunch then moved on upriver. Beginning to get the knack of sloping locks especially the ones with pontoons, make life so much easier and no climbing up slippery ladders. We ended up for the night at Villeneuve - sur - Yonne, found some public mooring but sans electricity, water and showers despite what the Navicarte describes. We have got to the stage of taking the information given with a large pinch of salt. Still OK for water and fuel but will need some in the next day or two. Villeneuve boasts a 11 century tower and old buildings interesting but no information about, the town had that slightly seedy look about it as if it had seen better days. As we couldn't carry on due to a lock further up being out of action ?? we only did 15 km today so will need to be up with the lark tomorrow.

Sat 24th May
Up and out by 8 am and standing by the first lock at 9 am. Unfortunately the lockeeper had to follow a barge through 2 locks so as it had priority he disappeared for an hour before coming back to process us though. While we were in Villeneuve we met another British boat "karenza' owners Chris and Hillary, who with some friends were also making for the Med but in several stages. They followed us down through several locks until disappearing down the Canal de Bourgogne at Migennes. It was nice to have some company for a while. There seems to be more pleasure boats around now, maybe the season has hotted up! Chris and Hilary kindly asked us to share their lunch which was kind. They seem to have organised a system of friends to help them down the canal to Marseille, so we expect to meet up with them again. Anyway we exchanged details and are keeping a book of boaters we meet on our travels.
Dave has been letting me do the locks with advice sometimes with some terse comments(after all it is his baby) was managing fine and improving when we went into a lock started to manoeuvre into position then some 8 year old wanted us on the other side of the lock. Yours truly panicked and slammed into the lock side scraping the life raft! Dave said it hasn't done much damage but I haven't seen it myself. Didn't do much for the old confidence so got Dave to take over. Will try again tomorrow
After we said our goodbye's and were waiting in the first lock down a canalised part of the river between Bassou and Giurgy the heavens opened, thunder and lightening (the full works) lasted for a good half hour then continued to rain heavily for most of the evening. We were planning to reach Auxerre but the weather and number of locks defeated us and we ran out of lock time (7pm) feeling and looking like drowned rats we moored up at Moneteau on another public mooring. With only 6 km and three locks to go it will be an easy motor into Auxerre tomorrow. We thankfully retreated into the saloon, put the heating on and dried out!