Posted by D
Well we finally did it - took that first step that starts any journey. Actually this was rather a large step of 101 Miles.
L, Rom & I cast off from Rossiter's in Christchurch at 1535 on 28 April. When we reached the harbour mouth there were a group of friends and family waving and hooting horns - what a great send-off! Thanks everyone.
We put the sails up (with a single reef in the main) in the bay and set off on 140 degrees for Le Havre. I started to register the passage with Portland Coastguard when, already heeled, there was a huge crash as a wave hit us and the fridge door catch broke and gave way. An avalanche of food spewed all over the floor - First casualty and (so far so good) - the only one.
We had South Westerly winds around 20 gusting to 24 Knots - at the limit of comfort. We soon put in a second reef and reduced heel to a comfortable level. With significant waves it was bumpy but Rosa cuts through the waves pretty well so we hunkered down for a long 22 hours of sailing. At first we did hourly watch changes to familiarise everyone with the systems. L (who is usually bullet proof as far as seasickness goes) warmed up some pre-made Spaghetti Bolognese. Even she found it uncomfortable below so she balked at cooking spaghetti - but the bolognese was delicious and very welcome even without pasta.
I soon found that I didn't really have enough cold weather gear. Despite 6 layers up top, my legs began to freeze as it began to get dark. A sleeping bag around them sorted it out while the night was dry.
At 2100, Lindsay took the first 2 hour night watch and then Rom and I took turns to sleep and helm. I was very skeptical about going below to sleep but found that it really is true - when lying in a bunk, you feel much better and the rocking motion sooths you into a dreamless sleep. Unfortunately, when you get up, the oilies and life-jacket have to go on and that's when I lost it (my dinner that is)! Luckily I was fine on deck and nobody else got any more than nausea
My first night watch was gorgeous. The wind dropped a bit and so did the waves. The sky was completely clear and burning with stars. They were so bright and so many that it was difficult to see the constellations. Soon we went through a patch of phosphorescence so we were surrounded with stars above and below. Very tropical except for the biting cold - so I take it as a good omen for our journey.
Rom drew the short straw and shortly after his watch began at 0100, it started to rain on and off. The wind also got up again. The one good thing was that the clouds also brought warmer air.
By the time my second watch came round at 0300, we were almost through the shipping lanes. The warmer air also meant I didn't need the sleeping bag any more which was just as well as it would have got soaked in the occasional showers. Our new AIS system is really fantastic! It gave us much more confidence than the mark one eyeball seeing nav lights, Radar or even MARPA. We did learn the lesson that Warships don't give out AIS signals - although I suspect there is little danger from them as they always keep a very good lookout and have superb equipment.
I was amazed how far away we were before the top light on the TV mast on Saint Catherine's point disappeared. It was clearly visible (long after all other signs of England had dropped below the horizon) from over 50 miles away almost in the Bai de la Seine.
The morning dawned clear and bright with a few scattered clouds. We had an uneventful if bumpy sail till 11.00. Then the wind dropped to nothing and we had to motor for an hour. Then it came back up as a gentle Southerly. After an hour, we took out the second reef and put the Bimini down. Of course within another half an hour it clouded over, up came the wind and it started to rain. It stayed pretty much like that until we reached Le Havre just before 1500 (BST) By which time, we had 24 Knots of wind and heavy rain.
Mooring was distinctly interesting. We picked a space in the inner harbour as the Shell Channel Pilot suggests and went to find the Capitenerie. Unfortunately, they had just cleared boats from where we had moored preparatory to dredging so we had to move. There are no signs anywhere so for reference - if you arrive in Le Havre, the visitors pontoon is the first one you come to as you enter the outer marina. You can take any free berth at any of the finger pontoons on either side.
Casting off was a dogs dinner - just lucky the weather was too bad for anyone to be watching. It was a great lesson in not doing new things in challenging conditions. Rom had shown us an ingenious way of tying on - but neither L or I knew how to let go properly when it came to casting off. Line after line got tangled or caught.
We got onto the visitors berth on the downwind side of a finger so as not to spend the night re-setting popped out fenders. We called some Frenchmen over but they didn't know what we wanted with the warps and ended up going off in high dudgeon.
We were unable to raise the French Coastguard on Channel 16 to report our arrival so we had to call Robin at home to get him to tell Portland Coastguard by phone! Mr Rieset turns out to be off all week so we won't be able to get the mast down until Monday. It was worth the rush though as we had reasonable weather across and now it has closed in big time!
In the evening, Rom took us out for a really great meal in a Brasserie recommended by the Capitain. Great food, a cheeky waiter and reasonable prices. We will be going back there!
