The canal stage of our journey is now finished. To see what happens next, please click the link below and bookmark the new blog....
First Year on the Med.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Down the Rhone to the Sea
The Rhone – one of the biggest rivers in Europe and certainly one to be treated with serious respect. It represented 1/3 of our journey (as the crow flies) through France but occupied less than a week although we could easily have spent much longer. It has strong currents, vicious winds, enormous locks and lots of huge fast commercial traffic. On the other hand, it runs through some of the most ancient and beautiful towns in France and some of the best wine regions (Cote du Rhone, Chateau-Neuf-du-Pape, etc).
To be honest, we didn’t do it justice. We were in a hurry after the long delay in Decize and deliberately missed out some of the best bits – Lyon, Macon, Beaucaire, etc. We took advantage of the current to do up to 80Km per day or to spend ½ a day sight seeing and then do 40 to 50 Km to the next stop.
Despite our hurry, we saw some wonderful and some stunning places.
The first stop was Givors 20K south of Lyon. They have great pontoons, pretty much empty. The strange thing is that they’re padlocked and chained from the land so you can’t get ashore and they can’t get in to charge you!
Vienne has amazing roman remains. It was a really important place during roman times – with a huge excavated site and excellent museum. In the center of town is a complete roman temple still standing. Apparently it was converted into a church in about 700ad and remained so until the god botherers were chucked out in the 18th century and it was restored to its former glory. At least its religious status preserved it though. The public quay on the right hand side before the foot bridge is solid and free but has no services.
Valence was a bit disappointing. The marina is huge and there is even a chandlery close by – but it is expensive and it is a long treck by bike into town or to the supermarket. The town is interesting – good shopping, beautiful parks, winding shaded streets with occasional squares. The church is impressive but speaks of wealth and power rather than of peace and tranquillity. This was also an important roman town but the remains are not as well preserved as elsewhere.
Viviers is something else. It’s only a large village really but time has passed it by. Most of it is built on a huge rock and the mediaeval houses cling to it as the alleys wind up to the church at the top. The church is a real gem – you must see it if you stop. It is a single open plan roman / gothic space – no hidden side chapels here. The walls are covered with huge paintings and even larger tapestries. The whole edifice has a sense of peace that makes you talk in whispers. Thw town square down below is shaded by trees and very French. The small marina is cheap and very efficient – although beware of teh submerged dyke. You MUST pass between the green and red posts or you will hit rocks – lots do each year apparently. The pontoons are seriously odd. They are attached to a high concrete wall at one end. There is a float at the other end but the pontoon surface is mounted ion stilts about a meter in the air. You will need your fenders high – indeed the pontoon was Above our decks and we had to tie the fenders to the pontoon!
From Viviers we left at 7.00 and shortly went through the huge Bollene lock (22M high). Very easy because like all the Rhone locks it has floating bollards so you just tie on tight and drift up or down.
By lunch time, we had done the 40K to Avignon – and what a place! You could easily spend several days exploring. The fabled bridge on which everyone dances ( Sur la pont d’Avignon, tout la monde dance dance ...) is only a shadow of its former self - only the first three of the original 24 arches remain. It was first constructed with wooden spans by the Romans. In the 12th century it was reconstructed in Stone. King Louis “the good” then destroyed it. It was rebuilt again in the following century but was neglected and the Rhone finally washed so much away that it was closed in the 16th century. L & I were first on at 9.00 in the morning and did a quick waltz just because we could.
The popes were resident in Avignon for many years and left huge palaces and churches. Anyone who thinks that the Catholic church has anything to do with spirituality or peace will finally have their illusions crushed by these edifices. They are huge monuments to worldly wealth and power. Very well worth a visit though – truly impressive and fascinating.
Our last stop was at Arles. We didn’t know much about this until we got there but again it is well worth a visit. If Vienne was an impressive Roman town, this was a true city. It had all teh mod cons you would expect in a major roman city – huge public baths, theatre, coliseum-style amphitheatre, Chariot racing track, etc. All these are on show – not just a s ruins but still in excellent preservation. The amphitheatre is used for bull fighting and productions are regularly staged at the theatre.
And so down the last 40K of featureless river – bordered by the marshes of the Camargue – but these are invisible because they lie low behind the raised banks of the river. At times down here we were doing 19Km per hour over the ground. We arrived at the lock into Port St Louis at 11.00 and waited for a commercial barge. Once in we waited for the down but nothing happened. Next thing we know, the keeper is asking us to go ahead through the open gates ‘vite vite’. The fall of the lock was less than 6 inches – so small we didn’t even notice it!
The journey down the canal to the gulf du Fos was interesting. The ship we went through with made a slow start as he had to get out of the lock and then make a right angle turn but he soon started to gain on us. Meanwhile we were approaching a small German cruiser that was sailing down the centre of the channel. Having gained considerable admiration for the captains of these large vessels in tiny canals, we pulled over to the side, slowed down and let him pass – and got a large cheery wave in thanks. But the german pressed on regardless, eventually forcing the ship to do an emergency slow down and to swerve sideways into shallower water to miss him and get past! (If you’re wondering – sail does noty have right of way over power in these circumstances).
He got his just deserts though. The ship (Gasamange) waited until the channel widened out as we reached the sea and first of all settled down to track him but up wind so he was forced to turn his motor on. It then pulled past him and deliberately stopped at right angles in front of him forcing hime to make a huge detour to get round. A nice piece of direct action!
After a very short spell in the Gulf du Fos, we turned up another channel to Port Napoleon. We’ve spent a week there so having the bottom scrubbed and checking all the underwater gear, re-configuring our possessions from canal mode to seagoing mode, having the mast put back, re-installing the sails and waiting for a part I dropped overboard and for a Mistral to pass. With luck we set off for Marseilles tomorrow.
To be honest, we didn’t do it justice. We were in a hurry after the long delay in Decize and deliberately missed out some of the best bits – Lyon, Macon, Beaucaire, etc. We took advantage of the current to do up to 80Km per day or to spend ½ a day sight seeing and then do 40 to 50 Km to the next stop.
Despite our hurry, we saw some wonderful and some stunning places.
The first stop was Givors 20K south of Lyon. They have great pontoons, pretty much empty. The strange thing is that they’re padlocked and chained from the land so you can’t get ashore and they can’t get in to charge you!
Vienne has amazing roman remains. It was a really important place during roman times – with a huge excavated site and excellent museum. In the center of town is a complete roman temple still standing. Apparently it was converted into a church in about 700ad and remained so until the god botherers were chucked out in the 18th century and it was restored to its former glory. At least its religious status preserved it though. The public quay on the right hand side before the foot bridge is solid and free but has no services.
Valence was a bit disappointing. The marina is huge and there is even a chandlery close by – but it is expensive and it is a long treck by bike into town or to the supermarket. The town is interesting – good shopping, beautiful parks, winding shaded streets with occasional squares. The church is impressive but speaks of wealth and power rather than of peace and tranquillity. This was also an important roman town but the remains are not as well preserved as elsewhere.
Viviers is something else. It’s only a large village really but time has passed it by. Most of it is built on a huge rock and the mediaeval houses cling to it as the alleys wind up to the church at the top. The church is a real gem – you must see it if you stop. It is a single open plan roman / gothic space – no hidden side chapels here. The walls are covered with huge paintings and even larger tapestries. The whole edifice has a sense of peace that makes you talk in whispers. Thw town square down below is shaded by trees and very French. The small marina is cheap and very efficient – although beware of teh submerged dyke. You MUST pass between the green and red posts or you will hit rocks – lots do each year apparently. The pontoons are seriously odd. They are attached to a high concrete wall at one end. There is a float at the other end but the pontoon surface is mounted ion stilts about a meter in the air. You will need your fenders high – indeed the pontoon was Above our decks and we had to tie the fenders to the pontoon!
From Viviers we left at 7.00 and shortly went through the huge Bollene lock (22M high). Very easy because like all the Rhone locks it has floating bollards so you just tie on tight and drift up or down.
By lunch time, we had done the 40K to Avignon – and what a place! You could easily spend several days exploring. The fabled bridge on which everyone dances ( Sur la pont d’Avignon, tout la monde dance dance ...) is only a shadow of its former self - only the first three of the original 24 arches remain. It was first constructed with wooden spans by the Romans. In the 12th century it was reconstructed in Stone. King Louis “the good” then destroyed it. It was rebuilt again in the following century but was neglected and the Rhone finally washed so much away that it was closed in the 16th century. L & I were first on at 9.00 in the morning and did a quick waltz just because we could.
The popes were resident in Avignon for many years and left huge palaces and churches. Anyone who thinks that the Catholic church has anything to do with spirituality or peace will finally have their illusions crushed by these edifices. They are huge monuments to worldly wealth and power. Very well worth a visit though – truly impressive and fascinating.
Our last stop was at Arles. We didn’t know much about this until we got there but again it is well worth a visit. If Vienne was an impressive Roman town, this was a true city. It had all teh mod cons you would expect in a major roman city – huge public baths, theatre, coliseum-style amphitheatre, Chariot racing track, etc. All these are on show – not just a s ruins but still in excellent preservation. The amphitheatre is used for bull fighting and productions are regularly staged at the theatre.
And so down the last 40K of featureless river – bordered by the marshes of the Camargue – but these are invisible because they lie low behind the raised banks of the river. At times down here we were doing 19Km per hour over the ground. We arrived at the lock into Port St Louis at 11.00 and waited for a commercial barge. Once in we waited for the down but nothing happened. Next thing we know, the keeper is asking us to go ahead through the open gates ‘vite vite’. The fall of the lock was less than 6 inches – so small we didn’t even notice it!
The journey down the canal to the gulf du Fos was interesting. The ship we went through with made a slow start as he had to get out of the lock and then make a right angle turn but he soon started to gain on us. Meanwhile we were approaching a small German cruiser that was sailing down the centre of the channel. Having gained considerable admiration for the captains of these large vessels in tiny canals, we pulled over to the side, slowed down and let him pass – and got a large cheery wave in thanks. But the german pressed on regardless, eventually forcing the ship to do an emergency slow down and to swerve sideways into shallower water to miss him and get past! (If you’re wondering – sail does noty have right of way over power in these circumstances).
He got his just deserts though. The ship (Gasamange) waited until the channel widened out as we reached the sea and first of all settled down to track him but up wind so he was forced to turn his motor on. It then pulled past him and deliberately stopped at right angles in front of him forcing hime to make a huge detour to get round. A nice piece of direct action!
After a very short spell in the Gulf du Fos, we turned up another channel to Port Napoleon. We’ve spent a week there so having the bottom scrubbed and checking all the underwater gear, re-configuring our possessions from canal mode to seagoing mode, having the mast put back, re-installing the sails and waiting for a part I dropped overboard and for a Mistral to pass. With luck we set off for Marseilles tomorrow.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Saone to Lyons
We only spent a few days on the lower Saone but what we saw was lovely. AT least the part we went on is a big slow friendly river with only three locks and all of those were a doddle as they are big ship locks automatic and with their own lock keeper – very similar to those on the seine – but these were going down for us which is so much easier!
We spent a short time going from the end of the Canal du Centre down to Challon-sur-Saone where we moored in the excellent Marina. For a very reasonable price, we had all services except Internet. That was available at (my mouth is puckering at the thought) at MacDonalds 3 minutes walk away. I even ate a big mac for the first time in many years and hope the last in many years too. There is even a chandler a stone’s throw from the port – useful although mostly power boat stuff.
We had an excellent meal out to celebrate the end of the canals and really struck it lucky on our second night which was Music Night when the whole of France erupts in street music late into the night. We drank beer and listened well into the small hours. Some really good acts were playing at various places in the town. We went into the cathedral and sat listening to some baroque choral music – until a nice lady sat next to us and tried to convert me to Catholicism in French. Bit of a lost cause!
Challon itself is lovely. Winding mediaeval streets interspersed with shady squares.
Next day we stopped for a sight seeing trip at Tournus. This has a really beautiful abbey – very old and essentially unspoilt. But it was hot and it was Monday (everything shut in France) so we went on in the afternoon down to Villefranche.
The Navicarte claims that moorings here are only for Campers at the site but this is well out of date. There is a very nice free town pontoon. The town (with pone of the best Boulangeries we have come across – Croissants to die for) is a short walk up to the bridge.
Next day we really flew and really didn’t do justice to the towns and scenery around us. We had intended to stop in Lyon but in the event there wasn’t anywhere sensible to stop and neither of us felt up to the big city. We just passed on down onto the Rhone and kept going until we had had enough and found a place to stop at Givors.
We spent a short time going from the end of the Canal du Centre down to Challon-sur-Saone where we moored in the excellent Marina. For a very reasonable price, we had all services except Internet. That was available at (my mouth is puckering at the thought) at MacDonalds 3 minutes walk away. I even ate a big mac for the first time in many years and hope the last in many years too. There is even a chandler a stone’s throw from the port – useful although mostly power boat stuff.
We had an excellent meal out to celebrate the end of the canals and really struck it lucky on our second night which was Music Night when the whole of France erupts in street music late into the night. We drank beer and listened well into the small hours. Some really good acts were playing at various places in the town. We went into the cathedral and sat listening to some baroque choral music – until a nice lady sat next to us and tried to convert me to Catholicism in French. Bit of a lost cause!
Challon itself is lovely. Winding mediaeval streets interspersed with shady squares.
Next day we stopped for a sight seeing trip at Tournus. This has a really beautiful abbey – very old and essentially unspoilt. But it was hot and it was Monday (everything shut in France) so we went on in the afternoon down to Villefranche.
The Navicarte claims that moorings here are only for Campers at the site but this is well out of date. There is a very nice free town pontoon. The town (with pone of the best Boulangeries we have come across – Croissants to die for) is a short walk up to the bridge.
Next day we really flew and really didn’t do justice to the towns and scenery around us. We had intended to stop in Lyon but in the event there wasn’t anywhere sensible to stop and neither of us felt up to the big city. We just passed on down onto the Rhone and kept going until we had had enough and found a place to stop at Givors.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Canal du centre
The canal du Centre runs straight into the Lateral without even a board marking the spot. Even the PK0 milestone is missing. Despite this it is significantly different.
The locks are a different pattern again. The early ones are all automatic. They magically show you a green light when the doors are open and in you go. Then the fun starts!
To operate the lock, you have to pull a blue rope attached to a pole mounted on the side. Unfortunately for us, there appears to be no consistency about how close to the gates this pole is sited. On many of them, we found it to be much to close to the gate for our encumbered and rounded stern. We tried to pull the cord from the boat but it involved so much toing and froing that we gave up and now I always drop L at the ladder (usually but not always beside the pole). She climbs up, puts the ropes on
the bollards taking care to ignore any that are too close to the gate) and then pulls the cord for a few seconds (until the little orange lamp on the hut starts flashing)
From then on it is all very smooth. The gate behind shuts and then the paddles open. The flow is powerful but surprisingly free of turbulence. It pulls you hard backwards and then hard forwards. Finally the upstream gates open and you’re off.
The mystery is how the gates know you have arrived. There are no sensors. Talking to a keeper, it appears that the ‘center’ knows where you are on a big board – based just on reports of lock keeper. Then there is a keeper checking for trouble (and presumably for surprise travellers who have been moored) who drives between several locks.
The next surprise was when we rolled up at a lock at 6.30 expecting to have another ½ hour to find it shut and dead with nobody anywhere to be seen. We did a wild mooring with our trusty Ronde anchors and asked in the morning what had happened. Oh says the keeper – you’re on a new canal now. The hours are 8.30 to 6.30 with no hour for lunch. Nice of them to let us know!
The third difference we noted is the towpath. On the Nivernais and Lateral, this is reserved for users, the VNF service and bikes. On the central, it is a road. This means that you lose the feeling of rural isolation. It does have the advantage however that services, such as small shops, restaurants and fuel stations are all frequent as they pick up custom from both the canal and the road. That said, the canal edges are distinctly challenging for a fragile boat like Rosa. They are mostly made of corrugated steel plates or sloping concrete. Elsewhere they are very shallow and often have underwater chunks of concrete or stakes.
We went on to Montceau les Mines – which is a real surprise. It’s a pretty heavy industrial city complete with a huge factory and cooling tower as you approach. But they’ve made a huge effort to make it attractive. The bridges are all brightly painted and the Port au Plaisance is superb with large high-quality pontoons and VERY modes fees. The town has everything you could want except a chandlery including a launderette. I have to say it is a thoroughly recommended stop. We missed it, but were told that it has a really excellent market on Tuesdays and Saturdays right by the quay side.
We hit the first lock at 8.30 as we had told the lock keeper. We had a green light so we went in moored up and pulled the blue cord – and nothing happened. We tried again but still nothing. We hung around not knowing what to do and in a few minutes the lock keeper appeared and pulled the blue cord for us with an air of “I’ll show these English amateurs how to do it”. Nothing happened. Slightly sheepish he realised he hadn’t turned the lock on yet!
At the next lock, the gates were open but no lights at all. We cautiously went in, pulled the blue chord and, yet again, nothing happened. We sat for 10 minutes but there was no sign of anyone. Eventually we spotted a small plack on the lock-keepers hut giving the number of ‘central control’. I called it, and sure enough a woman drove up in the obligatory white van and confessed that she had forgotten to switch it on this morning (she has 6 locks to manage).
It all illustrates the weakness of the automatic systems. When they work, they are very efficient but there is no way for boats to signal that they are there and nobody at the lock to notice a problem and correct it. If you are stuck outside it can be very difficult as there is nowhere to land and no way to get help. Writing down that number for central control is a very good idea – but sadly one I didn’t think of till now.
We had an uneventful journey up to the summit. The scenery is pretty, the villages have shops and there was little or no other traffic. The summit itself lacks the drama of the Nivernais with its tunnels although it does boast a longish cut. And then it’s down the staircase. Very impressive and all the deep locks (5 Meters or so have floating bollards which makes it much easier. Now we knew this from reading the book but, depite that, we both missed what those large lumps of metal were in the first one and had an uncomfortable passage with ropes attached to bollards on top and getting very close to their ends. Just shows, you don’t see things if they are unfamiliar and unexpected – like the Gorilla on the football pitch.
We soon got behind a hire boat who were less that expert. Their technique was to drive like a car but have a bloke with a boat-hook scurrying around at the back fending off the sides of the lock. Very amusing but a little slow.
Two huge hotel boats came up the other way(one with the captain dressed up like Crocodile Dundee) which gave us some sweaty moments.
And finally we reached the last lock. Completely different and very impressive with a huge 10Meter fall and its own lock keeper. It had floating bollards too so very easy. After another Killometer, we entered the river Saone – wide, free, and there was someone sailing!
The locks are a different pattern again. The early ones are all automatic. They magically show you a green light when the doors are open and in you go. Then the fun starts!
To operate the lock, you have to pull a blue rope attached to a pole mounted on the side. Unfortunately for us, there appears to be no consistency about how close to the gates this pole is sited. On many of them, we found it to be much to close to the gate for our encumbered and rounded stern. We tried to pull the cord from the boat but it involved so much toing and froing that we gave up and now I always drop L at the ladder (usually but not always beside the pole). She climbs up, puts the ropes on
the bollards taking care to ignore any that are too close to the gate) and then pulls the cord for a few seconds (until the little orange lamp on the hut starts flashing)
From then on it is all very smooth. The gate behind shuts and then the paddles open. The flow is powerful but surprisingly free of turbulence. It pulls you hard backwards and then hard forwards. Finally the upstream gates open and you’re off.
The mystery is how the gates know you have arrived. There are no sensors. Talking to a keeper, it appears that the ‘center’ knows where you are on a big board – based just on reports of lock keeper. Then there is a keeper checking for trouble (and presumably for surprise travellers who have been moored) who drives between several locks.
The next surprise was when we rolled up at a lock at 6.30 expecting to have another ½ hour to find it shut and dead with nobody anywhere to be seen. We did a wild mooring with our trusty Ronde anchors and asked in the morning what had happened. Oh says the keeper – you’re on a new canal now. The hours are 8.30 to 6.30 with no hour for lunch. Nice of them to let us know!
The third difference we noted is the towpath. On the Nivernais and Lateral, this is reserved for users, the VNF service and bikes. On the central, it is a road. This means that you lose the feeling of rural isolation. It does have the advantage however that services, such as small shops, restaurants and fuel stations are all frequent as they pick up custom from both the canal and the road. That said, the canal edges are distinctly challenging for a fragile boat like Rosa. They are mostly made of corrugated steel plates or sloping concrete. Elsewhere they are very shallow and often have underwater chunks of concrete or stakes.
We went on to Montceau les Mines – which is a real surprise. It’s a pretty heavy industrial city complete with a huge factory and cooling tower as you approach. But they’ve made a huge effort to make it attractive. The bridges are all brightly painted and the Port au Plaisance is superb with large high-quality pontoons and VERY modes fees. The town has everything you could want except a chandlery including a launderette. I have to say it is a thoroughly recommended stop. We missed it, but were told that it has a really excellent market on Tuesdays and Saturdays right by the quay side.
We hit the first lock at 8.30 as we had told the lock keeper. We had a green light so we went in moored up and pulled the blue cord – and nothing happened. We tried again but still nothing. We hung around not knowing what to do and in a few minutes the lock keeper appeared and pulled the blue cord for us with an air of “I’ll show these English amateurs how to do it”. Nothing happened. Slightly sheepish he realised he hadn’t turned the lock on yet!
At the next lock, the gates were open but no lights at all. We cautiously went in, pulled the blue chord and, yet again, nothing happened. We sat for 10 minutes but there was no sign of anyone. Eventually we spotted a small plack on the lock-keepers hut giving the number of ‘central control’. I called it, and sure enough a woman drove up in the obligatory white van and confessed that she had forgotten to switch it on this morning (she has 6 locks to manage).
It all illustrates the weakness of the automatic systems. When they work, they are very efficient but there is no way for boats to signal that they are there and nobody at the lock to notice a problem and correct it. If you are stuck outside it can be very difficult as there is nowhere to land and no way to get help. Writing down that number for central control is a very good idea – but sadly one I didn’t think of till now.
We had an uneventful journey up to the summit. The scenery is pretty, the villages have shops and there was little or no other traffic. The summit itself lacks the drama of the Nivernais with its tunnels although it does boast a longish cut. And then it’s down the staircase. Very impressive and all the deep locks (5 Meters or so have floating bollards which makes it much easier. Now we knew this from reading the book but, depite that, we both missed what those large lumps of metal were in the first one and had an uncomfortable passage with ropes attached to bollards on top and getting very close to their ends. Just shows, you don’t see things if they are unfamiliar and unexpected – like the Gorilla on the football pitch.
We soon got behind a hire boat who were less that expert. Their technique was to drive like a car but have a bloke with a boat-hook scurrying around at the back fending off the sides of the lock. Very amusing but a little slow.
Two huge hotel boats came up the other way(one with the captain dressed up like Crocodile Dundee) which gave us some sweaty moments.
And finally we reached the last lock. Completely different and very impressive with a huge 10Meter fall and its own lock keeper. It had floating bollards too so very easy. After another Killometer, we entered the river Saone – wide, free, and there was someone sailing!
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Lindsay Diary 6-16 June
WED
Friday 6th June
Went through the lock into Cercy la Tour and moored up onto pontoon. Walked with Richard and Jan to the station 1/2 hour walk away. They have a change of trains and a bus ride to return to the van then will drive overnight to Le Hevre to catch their ferry
Started to rain again and we found out the Loire was closed due to the height and speed of the river to boats. Hopefully will re - open on Monday meanwhile we are stuck. Dave was still having trouble with an infection on his leg so a visit to the GP was required. Doctor very good but cross we didn't make an appointment ( how?) but saw us after a long wait. 250 euros later we returned to the boat!! Antibiotics for ten days and self administered jabs in case of thrombosis for 5 days. hope it works, means we are on field rations for a week as that was our weeks money used up.
Saturday 7th June
Still raining Loire opening now possibly Wednesday. Cercy is a nice town but very small and took a whole hour to see round it. Both Dave and I are getting stir crazy and are seriously thinking of moving onto Dicize tomorrow.
Sunday 8th June.
Stopped raining so a quick sort out and we got to Dicize by 11 am
It just goes to show what a bit of sun can do , it was a lovely journey down and we were shown a mooring rafted up to a unused barge. Dicize also has water and electricity with a donation suggested by the VNF water authority. It looks now as if we will be here until Friday but at least Dicize is a bigger town and what with the rail station almost on our doorstep we can go sightseeing if we want to.
Monday 9th June
Getting used to this stationary life, lots of housekeeping while Dave caught up on his work hours. Met several neighbours in the same boat ( excuse the pun!) Major disaster as I have lost the sapphire out of my engagement ring, very upset, must be on the boat somewhere I hope.
Tapas 10th June
Went into the town centre, thought we would take the bus, waited but no bus or buses anywhere so walked . Needed to reclaim our medical expenses at the local hospital administration office and find internet access. The hospital paperwork was done very efficiently in 10 minutes but we will have to wait for two months to see any of it as it takes that long to process it! Internet was done in two hours due to Dave's work cost 10 euros. When we went into the tourist office we then found out we could tap into their WiFi for free , Oh well. The laundrette is miles away so will have to hand wash tomorrow and save the sheets etc. until a closer laundrette becomes available
Wednesday 11th June
Washing day!! some very kind French neighbours who live next to the river came over and let me use their washing line which was kind of them. Still no rain so maybe Friday we can escape
Thursday - Friday 12th - 13th June
Still waiting, attempted to take the train to Never which is the capital of the region only to find they were on strike! Seems to be a national passtime in France, since we have arrived I think we have noticed or been affected by at least 4 of them so it was back to Rosa. We have been invited to have tea with the elderly french couple who lent me their washing line, very nice of them but I must admit I am dreading it. Will sit there like a spare part. We appear to have a water leak so have resorted to using water from our large water containers, not the best solution. Hopefully Dave will be able to figure out where the leak is at the weekend
Saturday 14th June
Decided to escape to Never today and THE TRAINS WERE RUNNING. Never is a large town with several churches and a cathedral. It also has the preserved remains of Saint Bernadette.
We treated ourselves and had a nice lunch in town saw a couple of churches including a rather run down but fascinating 16th Century Jesuit church with lots of wall frescoes. Found out the train back was a bus a good hours journey unstead of 35 mins stopping at all points on the way
Dave bless him was worried that we would be carried into Decize town centre and had arranged to be dropped off near the boats not realising we would be dropped at the station so ended up walking miles back to Rosa!
Sunday 15th June
Had tea with Madame and Monsieur Clanard? Madame seemed to appreciate my offering of Little cakes acquired in Nevers yesterday so that was good. Had a good time even though my contribution to the conversation was minimal!
Monday 16th June
A knock on the side of the boat at 8.45, the Loire was open at long last. you should have seen two people move as Dave was terrified that they would close it again!
We were on the canal ready to go at 9 am. When we arrived at the lock leading onto the river the lockeeper denied any knowledge that the situation had changed so after a quick phone call to head office we were eventually let through We had quite a reception committee seeing us through the first lock. Dave had some difficulty manuvering into the lock leading from the Loire into the canal Lateral as there were some nasty currents round the lock gates but on his second approach managed to slide in. Yet another different way to operate the locks using rope to announce our arrival after which the lock was automatic.
We managed to cover some considerable ground as there are very few locks on this canal and did 41 Km upto Putney where we moored up for the night
Tuesday 17th June
Motored through the canal de Lateral and onto the canal Central in the early afternoon after a stop to restock provisions in Digoin
Although it was the secret hour of 12 - 1pm managed to obtain all my requirements including finding a butchers open!
We motored on hoping to reach Palinges for the night, had two more locks to go arriving at 6.30 with time to spare at the first one before lock down only to find the lock closed up with no one on site These locks are automatic and should be available until 7 pm Dave dropped me off to see what was what only to find the place deserted and big chains on the equipment. We weren't going, so was forced to moor up next to the lock. WORDS WILL BE SAID TOMORROW TO VNF
Friday 6th June
Went through the lock into Cercy la Tour and moored up onto pontoon. Walked with Richard and Jan to the station 1/2 hour walk away. They have a change of trains and a bus ride to return to the van then will drive overnight to Le Hevre to catch their ferry
Started to rain again and we found out the Loire was closed due to the height and speed of the river to boats. Hopefully will re - open on Monday meanwhile we are stuck. Dave was still having trouble with an infection on his leg so a visit to the GP was required. Doctor very good but cross we didn't make an appointment ( how?) but saw us after a long wait. 250 euros later we returned to the boat!! Antibiotics for ten days and self administered jabs in case of thrombosis for 5 days. hope it works, means we are on field rations for a week as that was our weeks money used up.
Saturday 7th June
Still raining Loire opening now possibly Wednesday. Cercy is a nice town but very small and took a whole hour to see round it. Both Dave and I are getting stir crazy and are seriously thinking of moving onto Dicize tomorrow.
Sunday 8th June.
Stopped raining so a quick sort out and we got to Dicize by 11 am
It just goes to show what a bit of sun can do , it was a lovely journey down and we were shown a mooring rafted up to a unused barge. Dicize also has water and electricity with a donation suggested by the VNF water authority. It looks now as if we will be here until Friday but at least Dicize is a bigger town and what with the rail station almost on our doorstep we can go sightseeing if we want to.
Monday 9th June
Getting used to this stationary life, lots of housekeeping while Dave caught up on his work hours. Met several neighbours in the same boat ( excuse the pun!) Major disaster as I have lost the sapphire out of my engagement ring, very upset, must be on the boat somewhere I hope.
Tapas 10th June
Went into the town centre, thought we would take the bus, waited but no bus or buses anywhere so walked . Needed to reclaim our medical expenses at the local hospital administration office and find internet access. The hospital paperwork was done very efficiently in 10 minutes but we will have to wait for two months to see any of it as it takes that long to process it! Internet was done in two hours due to Dave's work cost 10 euros. When we went into the tourist office we then found out we could tap into their WiFi for free , Oh well. The laundrette is miles away so will have to hand wash tomorrow and save the sheets etc. until a closer laundrette becomes available
Wednesday 11th June
Washing day!! some very kind French neighbours who live next to the river came over and let me use their washing line which was kind of them. Still no rain so maybe Friday we can escape
Thursday - Friday 12th - 13th June
Still waiting, attempted to take the train to Never which is the capital of the region only to find they were on strike! Seems to be a national passtime in France, since we have arrived I think we have noticed or been affected by at least 4 of them so it was back to Rosa. We have been invited to have tea with the elderly french couple who lent me their washing line, very nice of them but I must admit I am dreading it. Will sit there like a spare part. We appear to have a water leak so have resorted to using water from our large water containers, not the best solution. Hopefully Dave will be able to figure out where the leak is at the weekend
Saturday 14th June
Decided to escape to Never today and THE TRAINS WERE RUNNING. Never is a large town with several churches and a cathedral. It also has the preserved remains of Saint Bernadette.
We treated ourselves and had a nice lunch in town saw a couple of churches including a rather run down but fascinating 16th Century Jesuit church with lots of wall frescoes. Found out the train back was a bus a good hours journey unstead of 35 mins stopping at all points on the way
Dave bless him was worried that we would be carried into Decize town centre and had arranged to be dropped off near the boats not realising we would be dropped at the station so ended up walking miles back to Rosa!
Sunday 15th June
Had tea with Madame and Monsieur Clanard? Madame seemed to appreciate my offering of Little cakes acquired in Nevers yesterday so that was good. Had a good time even though my contribution to the conversation was minimal!
Monday 16th June
A knock on the side of the boat at 8.45, the Loire was open at long last. you should have seen two people move as Dave was terrified that they would close it again!
We were on the canal ready to go at 9 am. When we arrived at the lock leading onto the river the lockeeper denied any knowledge that the situation had changed so after a quick phone call to head office we were eventually let through We had quite a reception committee seeing us through the first lock. Dave had some difficulty manuvering into the lock leading from the Loire into the canal Lateral as there were some nasty currents round the lock gates but on his second approach managed to slide in. Yet another different way to operate the locks using rope to announce our arrival after which the lock was automatic.
We managed to cover some considerable ground as there are very few locks on this canal and did 41 Km upto Putney where we moored up for the night
Tuesday 17th June
Motored through the canal de Lateral and onto the canal Central in the early afternoon after a stop to restock provisions in Digoin
Although it was the secret hour of 12 - 1pm managed to obtain all my requirements including finding a butchers open!
We motored on hoping to reach Palinges for the night, had two more locks to go arriving at 6.30 with time to spare at the first one before lock down only to find the lock closed up with no one on site These locks are automatic and should be available until 7 pm Dave dropped me off to see what was what only to find the place deserted and big chains on the equipment. We weren't going, so was forced to moor up next to the lock. WORDS WILL BE SAID TOMORROW TO VNF
Up the Canal du Centre
The canal du Centre runs straight into the Lateral without even a board marking the spot. Even the PK0 milestone is missing. Despite this it is significantly different.
The locks are a different pattern again. The early ones are all automatic. They magically show you a green light when the doors are open and in you go. Then the fun starts!
To operate the lock, you have to pull a blue rope attached to a pole mounted on the side. Unfortunately for us, there appears to be no consistency about how close to the gates this pole is sited. On many of them, we found it to be much to close to the gate for our encumbered and rounded stern. We tried to pull the cord from the boat but it involved so much toing and froing that we gave up and now I always drop L at the ladder (usually but not always beside the pole). She climbs up, puts the ropes on the bollards taking care to ignore any that are too close to the gate) and then pulls the cord for a few seconds (until the little orange lamp on the hut starts flashing)
From then on it is all very smooth. The gate behind shuts and then the paddles open. The flow is powerful but surprisingly free of turbulence. It pulls you hard backwards and then hard forwards. Finally the upstream gates open and you’re off.
The mystery is how the gates no you have arrived. There are no sensors. Talking to a keeper, it appears that the ‘center’ knows where you are on a big board – based just on reports of lock keeper. Then there is a keeper checking for trouble (and presumably for surprise travellers who have been moored) who drives between several locks.
The next surprise was when we rolled up at a lock at 6.30 expecting to have another ½ hour to find it shut and dead with nobody anywhere to be seen. We did a wild mooring with our trusty Ronde anchors and asked in the morning what had happened. Oh says the keeper – you’re on a new canal now. The hours are 8.30 to 6.30 with no hour for lunch. Nice of them to let us know!
The third difference we noted is the towpath. On the Nivernais and Lateral, this is reserved for users, the VNF service and bikes. On the central, it is a road. This means that you lose the feeling of rural isolation. It does have the advantage however that services, such as small shops, restaurants and fuel stations are all frequent as they pick up custom from both the canal and the road. That said, the canal edges are distinctly challenging for a fragile boat like Rosa. They are mostly made of corrugated steel plates or sloping concrete. Elsewhere they are very shallow and often have underwater chunks of concrete or stakes.
We went on to Montceau les Mines – which is a real surprise. It’s a pretty heavy industrial city complete with a huge factory and cooling tower as you approach. But they’ve made a huge effort to make it attractive. The bridges are all brightly painted and the Port au Plaisance is superb with large high-quality pontoons and VERY modes fees. The town has everything you could want except a chandlery including a launderette. I have to say it is a thoroughly recommended stop. We missed it, but were told that it has a really excellent market on Tuesdays and Saturdays right by the quay side.
The locks are a different pattern again. The early ones are all automatic. They magically show you a green light when the doors are open and in you go. Then the fun starts!
To operate the lock, you have to pull a blue rope attached to a pole mounted on the side. Unfortunately for us, there appears to be no consistency about how close to the gates this pole is sited. On many of them, we found it to be much to close to the gate for our encumbered and rounded stern. We tried to pull the cord from the boat but it involved so much toing and froing that we gave up and now I always drop L at the ladder (usually but not always beside the pole). She climbs up, puts the ropes on the bollards taking care to ignore any that are too close to the gate) and then pulls the cord for a few seconds (until the little orange lamp on the hut starts flashing)
From then on it is all very smooth. The gate behind shuts and then the paddles open. The flow is powerful but surprisingly free of turbulence. It pulls you hard backwards and then hard forwards. Finally the upstream gates open and you’re off.
The mystery is how the gates no you have arrived. There are no sensors. Talking to a keeper, it appears that the ‘center’ knows where you are on a big board – based just on reports of lock keeper. Then there is a keeper checking for trouble (and presumably for surprise travellers who have been moored) who drives between several locks.
The next surprise was when we rolled up at a lock at 6.30 expecting to have another ½ hour to find it shut and dead with nobody anywhere to be seen. We did a wild mooring with our trusty Ronde anchors and asked in the morning what had happened. Oh says the keeper – you’re on a new canal now. The hours are 8.30 to 6.30 with no hour for lunch. Nice of them to let us know!
The third difference we noted is the towpath. On the Nivernais and Lateral, this is reserved for users, the VNF service and bikes. On the central, it is a road. This means that you lose the feeling of rural isolation. It does have the advantage however that services, such as small shops, restaurants and fuel stations are all frequent as they pick up custom from both the canal and the road. That said, the canal edges are distinctly challenging for a fragile boat like Rosa. They are mostly made of corrugated steel plates or sloping concrete. Elsewhere they are very shallow and often have underwater chunks of concrete or stakes.
We went on to Montceau les Mines – which is a real surprise. It’s a pretty heavy industrial city complete with a huge factory and cooling tower as you approach. But they’ve made a huge effort to make it attractive. The bridges are all brightly painted and the Port au Plaisance is superb with large high-quality pontoons and VERY modes fees. The town has everything you could want except a chandlery including a launderette. I have to say it is a thoroughly recommended stop. We missed it, but were told that it has a really excellent market on Tuesdays and Saturdays right by the quay side.
Canal Lateral de Loire
I don’t have much to say about the Canal Lateral de Loire – for a variety of reasons – none of which are anything to do with the canal itself:
• The weather was grey and miserable or raining.
• We were stir crazy after our enforced spell at Decize and so were itching to put some distance behind us. We took only a day and a half to reach Digoin which is pushing it some.
• We only saw the small section between Decize and Digoin.
The locks are very similar manual ones to the Nivernais although they are a bit bigger. The lock keepers still like a hand with the gates although, unlike the Nivernais, they don’t like you touching the paddles. They keep the same hours too of 9.00 to 7.00 with an hour for lunch from 12.00. The mechanism is intersting too and decidedly complex.
This part of the canal winds gently with widely spaced locks through very gently rolling green fields dotted with small villages. Many of the villages take considerable pains to provide facilities for boaters – moorings often with water and essential shops such as Boulangeries close by and well sign posted.
It all ends up at Digoin where you cross an impressive auqueduct over the Loire as you finally say good bye (or good riddance).
• The weather was grey and miserable or raining.
• We were stir crazy after our enforced spell at Decize and so were itching to put some distance behind us. We took only a day and a half to reach Digoin which is pushing it some.
• We only saw the small section between Decize and Digoin.
The locks are very similar manual ones to the Nivernais although they are a bit bigger. The lock keepers still like a hand with the gates although, unlike the Nivernais, they don’t like you touching the paddles. They keep the same hours too of 9.00 to 7.00 with an hour for lunch from 12.00. The mechanism is intersting too and decidedly complex.
This part of the canal winds gently with widely spaced locks through very gently rolling green fields dotted with small villages. Many of the villages take considerable pains to provide facilities for boaters – moorings often with water and essential shops such as Boulangeries close by and well sign posted.
It all ends up at Digoin where you cross an impressive auqueduct over the Loire as you finally say good bye (or good riddance).
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